Off the coast of Northern Norway, at the western border of the Barents Sea, a part of the Arctic Ocean, lies Bear Island (Norwegian: "Bjørnøya"). The island is the southernmost island of the Norwegian archipelago Svalbard, situated halfway between the arctic circle and the north pole. When the Dutch navigator Willem Barents discovered the island 9th June 1596, a polar bear was killed at the landing site, for which reason the island got its name. Its access, which is not eased by its rocky shores, is restricted; usually one would reach it by boat. The only inhabitants are those (numbered 9) who work at the meteorological station.

Our navigation to the island by a 38' sailing vessel started in Northern Norway; having made the ship ready and bought provisions something peculiar happened, which later was to prove useful. We weighted anchor in the harbour and tangled to it was another. Shortly after, we had another peculiar incident: while at the quay our boat was rammed by a pub(!) A boat named "Sjøpub'n", which was converted into a pub, damaged the boom at our bow. A little later, however, we could finally leave the town; the day was 25th July, the last day of midnight sun in that town, but sailing northwards the sun at night rose higher in the sky each day.

The vessel was in the open sea few hours later, but at that time problems fell upon us; because of a northeastern gale there was no way to sail properly, and at the same time the vessel's engine failed. We decided to turn back to the coast, which wasn't far away, to wait for a more favourable wind. We stayed at the quay at the lighthouse of Torsvåg for two days.

During the evening of 27th July the north wind seemed slowly to drop, and with a promising weather forecast we decided to tempt the open sea again. It sea was still rough, however, and we had at first a hard time, during which a couple of us got nausea. On the second day the sea was much calmer and with an eastern wind we rigged the sails. On the third day, 29th July, we discovered that we had lost ū of the fresh water because of a leak. Fortunately, the island appeared covered by a blanket fog that day, and by the evening we had arrived. The temperature on deck had fallen from 15°C since we left Tromsø to 3°C when we saw the island that day. Having anchored we landed with a small rubber boat at Bjørnøya Radio, the meteorological station. The people at the station welcomed us most friendly.

In front of the meteorological station "Bjørnøya Radio", at 74°30'N 19°01'E

1997/7/29 18:30MET 70mm ; f/3·5 ; 1/125" 200ISO 50·79Kb

A walk to Tunheim Miseryfjellet across the plain 1997/7/30 16:05MET 35mm ; f/8 ; 1/250" 200ISO 118·11Kb

Off the shore of the island, whence we intended to sail towards the northwestern parts of Svalbard according to our original plan, it was time for an important decision. We had already lost much time, and the problem with the engine which used to stop once an hour was not yet solved, so we decided not to sail further north, but to remain on the island for a little while and then return to Norway. On the next day we discovered that one of the cables for our two anchors was lax and its anchor still lies in the bottom of the sea. Thus the anchor we found in Tromsø proved itself useful. Later that day we left the station and walked to the abandoned mining town Tunheim located at the eastern part of the island. Walking across the island we could study its interesting geology, flora and fauna. But one danger is associated with the fauna: the polar bear, the largest of its kind, which easily, even unprovoked, kills a man. When summer comes they swim north following the drift ice and rarely remain for long on the island, but still one ought to carry a gun for protection just in case (we saw no bear, just its tracks).

Though we intended to stay at the island for another day, we left that night, because with a fair wind we suddenly had a nice opportunity to sail. For three days without any serious difficulties we sailed back; the sea was calm, the wind good, and it was finally time to enjoy the navigation; we saw porpoises, seals, minke whales and of course lots of seabirds. When we crossed the latitude 70°30' approaching Tromsø, we saw the first sunset and sunrise of the navigation. We arrived in Tromsø at noon 2nd August.

Fair Wind 1997/8/1 14:40MET 35mm ; f/11 ; 1/125" 200ISO 140·33Kb

Sunrise at 70°30', the first of the navigation 1997/8/2 01:45MET 105mm ; f/4·3 ; 1/125" 200ISO 72·75Kb

The archipelago
of Svalbard